Although not an easy task, some resourceful and inventive audiophiles have actually made their own DIY electrostatic speakers.
DIY electrostatics enthusiasts have been known to create some stunningly good equipment. A few of the very best amateurs turned professional and now comprise some of the most respected electrostatics manufacturers in the world.
Why spend money on elaborate electrostatic speakers when you can make them yourself? Hundreds of people are using materials they can buy at hobby shops and stores like Radio Shack(tm) and making their own home electrostatic loudspeaker speaker systems.
Here’s what you’ll need to build your DIY electrostatic speakers:
- Transformers, one or two per speaker – use tube amp output transformers, 4 ohm: 8K -20K ohm. Many people use Tango CRD-8 (4:8KCT) transformers that you can buy online from online stores or electronic stores in your neighborhood. You can also use transformers by Triad, StanCorp and these are often available in higher surplus overseas, again, get these online. Shoot for buying units that are good for about 15-20 W at 30 Hz and give a large impedance (i.e. voltage) transformation. You should go in expecting to pay for each tube for around US$45-60.
- Plastic film for the speaker diaphragms- Mylar or other polyester, thin (5-6 microns), and make them large enough to have the size of driver you want to build. This can be obtained from companies that make plastics for industrial uses. -You can buy a roll of these online usually from Japanese vendors if you’re looking to save money for around US$85-100.
- Powdered graphite, and some common hand soap to coat the diaphragm. Powdered graphite is available from your local hardware store for lubricating door locks. It will cost no more than $2 for enough to make about 50 speakers. Graphite has to be rubbed into the film using some cotton balls.
- Perforated steel – You need a piece for the front and the back ends of the driver. It should be flat and have about 75% open area (holes). The material many people use has holes that are about 4mm in diameter. Your local hardware store may have some available.
- Fiberglass PC board stock for the driver frame. Fiberglass is difficult to cut (you will need a carbide blade), and the dust from sawing is a health hazard, but common crazy glue will bond to it nicely. Acrylic or other plastics are easier to work with, but the crazy glue may not form much of a bond to them (contact cement will probably work also). You can get fiberglass from a PC board company, just Google the terms and you should be able to find a company that can sell it to you.
- Adhesive – Epoxy or crazy glue works well for attaching the perforated metal to the insulator frame. The problem with epoxy is that it doesn’t really bond to the Mylar film. A little mechanical stress can break the very weak bond and allow the film to peel right off. Just use a good amount but not too much that it becomes obtrusive.
- High voltage DC bias supply (1000-5000VDC, almost no current.) This can be made as a voltage multiplier that is useful off of the power lines. Get some high voltage diodes and capacitors, a few resistors, a circuit board and a line cord.
There are a multitude of DIY electrostatic speaker designs available online, pick one or create something unique – either way its a pretty tricky but hugely rewarding build. Good luck!
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